How to collect vintage watches
Collecting vintage watches is exciting, but it can be hard to know where to start.
17th September 2025

At Panache, we have over 20 years of experience in buying and selling watches, which is why this blog will explore our advice for collecting vintage watches.
Tips on collecting and buying vintage watches
Do your research
As always, when it comes to buying watches, the first step vintage watch collectors should take is to do their research. Understanding watch-related jargon, while researching different types of watches, models and brands will help you understand what features and watch types you’re looking for.
Use the research stage as an opportunity to identify dealers you trust and use forums to form discussions with collectors regarding popular vintage watches and how to start building your collection.
Understand the market
Once you have figured out the watch styles and features you like, you can start looking into specific brands and models. You can also identify vintage watches through auction sites, watch shows and watch seller sites.
Look for a trustworthy dealer
It’s important to find a trustworthy dealer before being close to making a purchase. You don’t want to get your hopes up about purchasing a watch from a dealer with a poor reputation or a lack of reviews. Instead, start building relationships with reputable dealers. This will allow you to have open and honest conversations about what you're looking for and how much you’re willing to pay. It could even put you in a position where you’re the first person to be contacted regarding a new vintage watch they have acquired.
Buy what you love
Depending on your reason for collecting vintage watches, it’s important to buy watches that you love and not ones that others will like. This will help you create a personalised collection that meets your preferences and has a more sentimental value.
Assess the condition and originality of the watches
When collecting vintage watches, you should keep a close eye on the condition of the watch and whether it still has its original features. For example, you will want to check that the original dial is featured on your watch, as replacing it or even restoring it can affect its future value. Polishing the watch can also affect this, as it removes the metal.
Imperfections and scratches make vintage watches unique, increasing their desirability. An example of this are Rolex watches with ‘tropical’ dials where they have faded to a brownish colour due to sun exposure. These are rare to come across and therefore highly desirable among collectors.
Consider how you plan on using your vintage watch
Knowing how you want to use your vintage watch will help you identify the best one for you. For example, if you plan on wearing them, perhaps every day, stainless steel and waterproof models may be a better option for added protection. If you plan on only wearing them for special occasions, you are likely to be able to get away with not purchasing a waterproof model.
If you plan on keeping your watches in a boxed collection, softer materials like gold can be a good choice as they’re less likely to get damaged.
Determine whether your collection will have a theme
Giving your collection a theme based on activity type, material, style and specific area of interest can help you better focus your attention on collecting the right watches. This is a great way to start your collection and then you can always widen your search later down the line.
Purchase your next luxury watch with Panache
At Panache, we have extensive experience in buying and selling luxury watches. Get in touch with us today to buy or sell your next watch.
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